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I was talking to TOO about staged mods for my JRSC here's the scoop:
<ul>[*]
I've just completed the list. It'll be tomorrow before I'll be able to send
you the killer prices on the components, if that's ok.
Recommended Components For Safe 10 psi Operation
1. J&S SafeGuard (any high performance application, N/A or FI)
2. Larger capacity fuel pump: The stock pump isn't adequate for 6 psi, let alone any more boost. The Walbro pumps are adequate to 10 psi, but no more. If you plan on more, do the Bosch pump we use.
3. Fuel Injectors: We don't consider the stock injectors adequate for even 6 psi. It's essential to go to a 310-cc injector to properly feed a blown Honda engine, especially in the 8-10 psi boost range.
4. Fuel System: The JR fuel regulator is an excellent component, but in order to run the larger injectors, an additional regulator is necessary to lower fuel pressure and reduce fuel flow when at idle or other non-boosted
driving conditions. The B&M Command Flow modification to the stock regulator carries out this duty exceptionally well. Working in conjunction with the JR regulator, this will allow one to achieve exceptionally clean running with enough injector to produce safe power in upper boost ranges.
5. Ignition: We highly recommend the use of an MSD BTM amplifier. Greater cylinder pressure requires a higher voltage spark, that also has a longer duration to light variable mixtures encountered under boosted circumstances. The MSD provides that capability and more. The BTM feature might not be presently needed, but when you begin looking for "more" the feature could
come in handy. The BTM also has the "soft touch" rev limiter, which is much easier than Honda's built in system, especially in a boosted climate.
6. Plug Wires: The best going are the 8.5-mm Magnecores for your application. These are one example of where bigger isn't better, as the 8.5 mm cables really out perform the 10 mm units that they produce for "looks".
7. Cam Pulleys: We do highly recommend adjustable cam pulleys for tuning purposes with blowers. We have had good success with most, but the SkunkWorks units seem to be made of the best materials and the most
reliable. It's a necessity to scribe the pulleys for true reference points before installing them, but once referenced, you're home free.
8. Air Induction: A properly designed induction tube with air cleaner should be used. I don't favor tubes that are of small consistent diameters, as the column of air in the tube is to slow to properly react to a supercharged engine's needs. Although, a cold air box is needed, the short large diameter
induction tubes are the correct route to go. They are also somewhat less expensive. Do not, under any circumstances, use one that tapers smaller as it approaches the throttle body. I don't care what anyone says, throttle
bodies like slow moving air to draw from, and to do them right, the tube should actually grow larger as it nears the throttle body.
9. Headers: Blown engines have nothing in common with their N/A counterparts. The headers based on TriY configurations and long 4 tube designs simply do not perform as well under pressure as the short primary
4-1 designs. The Kamikaze is very similar in size and length to our best R&E headers and its performance is also the best of any "available" header on the market. Don't let the price fool you either, for a blower engine, this is the ticket and money doesn't equal better performance here.
10. Exh. Systems: All of our testing over the years has clearly shown that blown engines like to have exhaust systems that present very little backpressure. Since a restrictive exhaust system can make boost gauge readings higher, this is another instance, where making the trip out easier, will actually drop the boost on the gauge and make the car accelerate harder. Scavenging isn't a necessity, as with N/A engines, as the exhaust gets quite a push during overlap by the blower pressure. 3" diameter systems seem to work the best with blowers. Remember that additional exhaust area must be created to make more power. Measure the dual exhaust pipes on a high performance V-6 or V-8 car with similar power to yours. Calculate the respective areas then add them together. I think you'll see that they typically more area than the single 3" tube. Also recommended is a 3" CAT to spread the area for the exhaust travel without restriction.
The components that we've identified as being the most efficient and easiest to install are from Thermal Research and Development.
11. Clutch and Flywheel: The best clutch combination of any we've tested is the ClutchMasters Stage 3 segmented Kevlar unit. The Kevlar is long lasting and easy on engagement, so there's no chatter. The material also permits a tiny amount of slippage on gear changes prior to complete lock-up. This might not seem an advantage, but consider that the slip will cause the
entire driveline to suffer reduced shock loadings, so component breakage
(including axle) will not occur. The slip will also help you from blowing the front tires off the car in second and third gears.
The CM aluminum flywheels are also our pick when it comes to reducing rotating mass for quicker acceleration and deceleration. They are highly recommended and offer a much better alternative to lightening flywheels,
which is extremely dangerous.
12. Limited Slips: I'll say this and no more. You can buy several less expensive differentials before investing in a Quaife, but you'll finally end up with one. We've managed to break every unit repeatedly, except the Quaife units. We have yet to break one on 5 years trying and, although there are
some torsion style units (including the R Types) available, not one can put the traction to the surface like the Quaifes.
Having the ability to accelerate off turns without worrying about "going straight" makes performance driving a pleasure and not a job. The Quaifes also settle the cars down on deceleration and make transitional pedal
movements very sure without upsetting the car's chassis. You have to drive a car with one to believe it. Do to growing up with RWD, I still like it, but, regardless of money, my
Hondas are still the most drivable cars and the most fun cars I've ever known. I think you'd have to take me back to racing karts to find an equal, but they're not streetable.
This pretty much sums up the parts necessary to do everything right with no down side or time for the B16 clan. Keep in mind that you can not compare a B16 with either B18 engines. While externally the same size, the internal geometry of the respective engines is so different that you can't think of
both simultaneously. The B16 is about as optimum as one could build an engine, where the B18s are at the other extreme of the spectrum. So, the B16 is the best engine that Honda's yet produced and it can also easily handle boost that would cripple the B18's.
I hope this gives you some things to think about. These mods do not need to be done all at once. The fuel system components and the ignition/safeguard should be first and the rest can follow...probably the intake and headers next, exhaust system, then the dirivline stuff as needed. Please do not lower the crap out of your car. About 1.5 inches would be the maximum to do safely. With a blower, these cars can generate tremendous speeds very quickly and I've thanked my stars on many occasions when I've
gotten in too deep on occasion. The suspension mods saved my ass. You have to have adequate suspension travel to negotiate turns on the uneven roads we have in the real world and dropping the car might look like
a cool race car that runs on a glass smooth road track, but I don't encounter those situations very often. I tell you this, because looking back, I don't see how most of my friends ever made it through our speed obsessed days...some didn't. I just want you
to know that we all care about you guys and we want you to learn and have fun doing it, but we don't want to see people getting hurt. When a driver running our equipment is hurt, it hurts us as well. We deal with all our cus
tomers personally and they all become our friends here. Feeling like we contributed to an injury or worse has made us think about leaving racing to pursue other endeavors we have going here on numerous occasions, so please be careful.
Sincerely,
Larry
What do you guys think?
[This message has been edited by zip (edited December 29, 1999).]
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Wow. That was some great reading in there.
This one's gonna be saved and printed out.
Thanks for posting that Zip. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
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He's tried all the LSD's. He only picked Quiaffe because they worked the best for him.
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Silvino Orozco
'97 Integra GS-R w/JRSC,JR Fuel pump, AEM Cold Air Intake, Powerstop rotors/Axxis Metal Master brake pads, A'PEXi Dunk Exhaust, J&S Safeguard unit
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how's it go?
open diff ... ------------
ITR diff..... --=-==------
quaife....... -==-==------
Kaaz......... ============
sorry..i don't know how to do turns with characters
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RacerX, Lip, ChicknWing, whatever.
94' GSR, 13.38's NA and counting down. Type GSR-R...what a wonderful feeling 9100rpm's is!!!
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one is similar to the torqsens design, i.e. type R or honda diffs, s2k, nsx, etc. the other is clutch type meant for racing. the kaaz I did the group buyin for was 1.5WAY hard ... it works well for drag, autoX, street driving and road racing. It takes much abuse and is used by some of the most powerful Skylines in Japan. The 1.5way hard locks the discs as more load is given, i.e. you step on the gas, it realeases when you come off the gas...it also locks whent eh wheels are turned, so if you locked the wheels left or right and tried to push the car, it will be hard to push cause when you try to move the car oyu apply load and the clutches lockup.
Price is way cheaper now, but after Jan 31, prices will go up to reflect the YEN rally earlier this year but the diffs will still be less than Autotech's prices for QUAIFFEs.
-Greg
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94 Civic FROG
435HP/289 lb-ft. torque.
11 Second Club.
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The quaife is the Automatic Torque Biasing Differential type and the kaaz is the clutchpack.. but wouldnt you think that the
Automatic Torque Biasing Differentials would be stronger than that of the clutchpack?
And the Quaife would also last longer? I am sure that neither of the 2 comes with a warranty etc...And after a while the clutch packs tend to wear out opposed to gearing which wouldnt, ack! who knows just throwing this out there for opinions on the subject.
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Fire breathing, methanol guzzling, 9000 hp b18b.
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Doesn't a lockup clutch type diff work best in straight line acceleration, where a torque biasing diff also works well in turns?
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no, clutch type has ntohing to do with straight line acceleration, both types work the same, one is more susseptable to breaking, the gear type, this usually happens when roadracing or autocrossing where one wheel lifs off the ground and the other takes all the torque bias then all of a sudden the wheel grabs again and the sudden shock breaks the helical gears. The honda diffs and Quaiffe are quite similar in nature, however the Quaiffe has more bias because of the angle in which the gears are cut. As fo rthe discs, they also have their downside (would you believe), they need rebuilding/replacing when they are worn (usually takes 2 seasons of FULL racing or 150K miles of "amatuer" abuse (iow, people like us).
The discs grab quite well and can withstand torture ... a lot more that helical gear'd types.
I also believe MUGEN, Cusco, ATS and other major companies use clutch types ... all being very similarly designed.
-Greg
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94 Civic FROG
435HP/289 lb-ft. torque.
11 Second Club.
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The Quaiffe has a lifetime warranty. You break it they replace it free. Just ask any dealer. Good reason to buy one if you are planning on a good bit of abuse http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Will
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dublocivic - I'm pretty sure the Quaiffe has an unlimited Lifetime Warranty.
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Sammy
s/c'd '94GSR
